Wasabi Nights

The Versatility of French Cuffs

A common request from Trunk Club men I work with is: I want interesting, different, uniquely "cool" dress shirts.  They are tired of "boring" basics.  These men want colors, patterns, fabrics and design that help define their personal style while still being professional enough to wear to work or out to an event.  Sounds like a simple request right? 

The difficulty in meeting their request is in the cuffs.  Most men ask for shirts with a plain, button cuff.  The challenge; a majority of men's dress shirts with unique, different, stylish patterns come with a french cuff. 

Personally speaking, I love the look of french cuffs.  I think they display a respectable decorum which I admire and would like to see more of.  Yet, I understand they are not appropriate for every situation nor for every man.  However, I do believe french cuffs are more versatile than most men realize. 

Regardless, I hope men remember my golden rule as listed on my Twenty Things Men Should Know post: women always appreciate french cuffs as long as your cuff links don't sparkle more than her jewelry.

Recently, I worked with three successful businessmen who work in the tech industry.  Their dress code is very business casual.  These men all requested "cool" and unique dress shirts with button cuffs.  Trunk Club sent a few button cuff shirts in the most interesting patterns available in their price range and a few dress shirts that easily fit the "cool" bill, but came with french cuffs.

All three men loved the patterns and look of the french cuffed shirts but were uncertain how they could use them in their everyday lives.  I demonstrated (we meet live via web cam) the two different methods of french cuff closure: the kissing method, which is the classically formal closure where the cuffs pinch together and the barrel-style method where one end of the cuff overlaps the other just like a button cuff.   

I recommended the men wear these shirts to work using the barrel-style method; a less formal and more practical way for men in the business casual world to wear french cuffs.  I also pointed out how versatile french cuffs were because a man can dress them up or down depending on the look he is going for.  It's almost like two shirts in one.  You may be surprised to hear all three men chose the french cuffed shirts.

A helpful tip: when wearing french cuffs, select your cuff links or silk knots wisely.  If you are working at a keyboard most of the day, large, heavy cuff links may not be the most comfortable option.  I recommend understated cuff links to begin.  After that, skies the limit.

Here is a helpful Primer for Wearing French Cuffs

For men who feel french cuffs only belong with a tuxedo or formal suit, may I suggest the following comparison?  Women's high heeled shoes are perfectly paired with a cocktail dress or evening gown.  However, high heels also look great with denim jeans, slacks, skirts and summer frocks.  Some women wear their heels with shorter capri pants, and even shorts.  High heeled shoes help women dress up their look and add style to even the simplest clothing. 

Men are quite limited in their clothing choices.  Distinguishing your style in a sea of suits or chino tuxedos (khaki pants and blue dress shirts) can be a challenge.  French cuffs can help. 

I love the idea proposed by a new friend from twitter: @frenchcuffexec.  This man has impeccable taste and wears stylishly, elegant, business formal on a daily basis.  He recently shared some relevant and helpful tips for men on the trunk club blog: Being a Well Dressed Man in 2009.  His idea is to start a movement where men forgo casual Friday in lieu of French Cuff Friday.  He suggests you wear them with jeans, chinos, slacks etc. as a way to improve the world for 2009.  Off the cuff, between us; I think the idea is charming.  Will you try it?

For more information on men's dress shirts, The Art of Manliness is an excellent resource.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Expert

Dressing Well is Only Half the Work

The well dressed man who has successfully mastered how to look good is welcomed everywhere.  Or is he?  Getting dressed is only half the work. 

The other day, I noticed an especially well dressed man.  From a distance, he caught my eye immediately.  He looked polished, handsome and successful.  His clothing, accessories and body language spoke confidence and I was intrigued to meet him.  However, as I moved closer to introduce myself, three things turned me away. 

I could smell his coffee breath from two arm's lengths away.  When this man spoke, his words were lost in stale Starbucks.

His hands were strong and handsome emerging from perfect cuffs.  However his fingernails were jagged as if a child had trimmed them.  Perhaps he used the bite and rip method?

Lastly, the man was self-indulgent and disrespectful.  After he answered a call on his cell phone loud enough for a large audience, he continuously interrupted his caller's conversation:  "Let me tell you..." and "I know, I know..." and "Yeah, yeah, yeah, I think..."  Additionally, he loudly bragged during his conversation how much his latest toy acquisition cost and how expensive his shoes were.

I was not the only one who noticed.  The eyes darting and rolling around the room were like ping pong balls let loose.  My point in sharing this observation, is to remind men, and people in general how little things can make a big impact.  While writing this article, I found it difficult to recall the positive things about this man.  My lasting impression was: no thank you.  While this man had a buffet of problems, even one of these things could be a deal breaker.  Such as it was, I didn't ask this man for an interview and I didn't take his photo (despite his amazing clothing).

Men, when dressing for success, please keep your body in mind: body odor, body language and body maintenance (including your posture!).  Dressing like a modern gentleman is only half the part.  Behaving and grooming like a gentleman can make or break your outfit.  See How to be a Modern Gentleman for more helpful tips.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Expert

A Classy Approach

Even if you don't own a Joseph Abboud suit, you can appreciate the ideals of an elegant Arbiter of men's clothing. This summary hits home for me.  Well said, well meant and well done.  Superb. 

-Lisa Bruckner, Trunk Club Expert

How to be a Modern Gentleman

Yesterday, I interviewed etiquette guru Mindy Lockard to discuss ways to be a modern gentleman. 

Many men are confused or nervous to behave like gentlemen for fear of accidentally patronizing liberated women.  My definition of a true gentleman extends far beyond the ideals of holding the door open for women.  I believe a gentleman is a man who genuinely makes others feel comfortable, respected and at ease regardless of their gender or station in life.  Mindy agreed.

Mindy said "chivalry isn't dead, it's just on life support."  Here is a summary of what we discussed and Mindy's tips for how you can be a modern gentleman.

1. Show respect equally between men and women.  Hold the door open for the person behind you, not just the woman.
2. Make eye-contact with everyone you interact with; it's the foundation of showing respect.
3. On a date, it's all about the offer.  May I get the door for you?  May I help you with your chair?  Let your date decide yes or no.  Its a win-win situation for both of you, even if she decides to answer no.
4. Be a good listener, especially when networking.  Ask meaningful questions after an introduction to discover how your lives fit together.  There is no networking gain when the other person is annoyed with your selfish banter.
5. At a dinner party, take care to talk to the people sitting on both sides of you.
6. Be mindful of the words you choose.  Poor language, especially Mr. Potty Mouth are most often associated with a lack of intelligence.
7. Each week read a national publication (e.g. Wall Street Journal) and a local publication. A well-read, informed man can enlighten his conversations with witty, intelligent, vocabulary and will always have something to say, or ask about, to ignite interesting discussion.
8. Gentlemen are not afraid to say they don't know something and to ask for more information.  His humility is engaging and enables him to learn and grow much more than Mr. "Know it All."
9. Remember names.  Stop apologizing and instead listen.  If you truly can't remember, simply say "please tell me your name again."  There is no need to go overboard apologizing.  Don't make it all about you.
10. Be aware of good service and quality and extend a gracious note or comment to thank people for their effort.  A true gentleman makes the time to send a written thank you for exceptional service.
11. Be mindful of your electronics.  Don't insult the intelligence of the people sitting with you when you assume you are fooling them as you check your email under the table.
12. Be mindful of your voice.  Voice control goes a long way.  A gentleman doesn't talk loudly to show how important he is.
13. When wearing a suit, please remember your jacket and pants go together; you can unbutton it, but please keep your jacket on.  A true gentleman is willing to be a little uncomfortable for the sake of a respectably, polished appearance.
14. The most important part of being a modern gentleman is to remember why you want to be a gentleman.  Is it to show consideration for others or simply to show off?

I recently enrolled in Mindy's on-line etiquette magazine Manner of the Month.  While I am fortunate to have been raised in a well mannered home, it's always nice to keep up with the latest etiquette rules, especially for the sake of my children. Good manners are good business.  And when all else fails, a well mannered person is remembered well.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Casual Done Well

While running errands, I photographed a man I'll call Mr. K, twice in the past two weeks.  Both times, he caught my eye and stood out from the rest as a man who blends casual comfortably with style. 

The first time I saw him, I was on borrowed time, pushing my cart through the aisle like a woman on a mission.  Suddenly, I was distracted by a man walking towards me.   He had on casual, leather loafers, jeans, a blue, striped shirt and a wool overcoat.  I stared at his shoes as we walked past each other, and then after glancing at my watch in exasperation, I turned my cart around and literally ran after him.  He graciously agreed to let me take a quick photo.

A week later, I was perusing the produce at Trader Joes when I noticed a man ahead of me wearing a blazer, jeans and distressed, leather loafers.  Upon closer inspection, it was Mr. K again!  This time, I had more time to talk with him a bit.  I complimented his jacket choices and mentioned the fact that many men in the Pacific Northwest wear a performance jacket (e.g. North Face) with jeans and a dress shirt.  Mr. K said he's tried wearing that, but it doesn't feel "quite right" and instead, picks a blazer.  I applauded his choice.  I also liked his leather shoes which were a nicer option than the commonly seen outdoorsy or athletic shoes.  Casual, comfortable, style.  It's the style that's often missing.

   

Mr. K's loafers are distressed without looking scuffed or dirty.  His striped shirt-tails are un-tucked and hang below his sweater; not too long, not too short.  The bold colors of his striped shirt were a good way to add style and interest to the solid layers above.  His blazer is a nice pairing with his shoes (they are both in the brown family-but not overly matchy-matchy).  His v-neck sweater was fitted versus baggy or blousy, and was a great layer in between the shirt and jacket.  Lastly, his corduroy blazer adds a touch of style to finish his comfortable, casual look.  Perhaps a white undershirt would be a bit more suave instead of the aged, green T-shirt, but overall, his look was casual done well.

Thank you Mr. K for your participation and input.  I hope to see more men like you blending comfortable and casual in an attractive way.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Men's Undershirts: Do you need to wear one? Which one is best?

 The first layer I recommend for the well dressed, American man is an undershirt.  Whether he is dressing for business casual or business formal, an undershirt serves both function and fashion.  It's function is to protect his shirt and layering pieces from sweat, body odor and unsightly deodorant stains.  It also functions in a fashion sense to smooth out the torso so the shirt or sweater lays flat across the body.  Chest hair, muscular-skeletal bumps, lumps and nipples are all things the undershirt smooths and diminishes. As for style; crew neck, v-neck or tank, is a personal choice. 

Does it matter what brand of undershirt you buy?  Yes!  Undershirts are not created equally and the idea you pay for what you get is very apparent in men's undershirts.  Just like premium denim the discerning qualities are fit and fabric. 

If your undershirt is simply a torso-liner so to speak, the ideal fit would be one that literally conforms to your body as closely as possible while still allowing you freedom of movement and comfort.  Unfortunately, the majority of popular, low cost undershirts like Hanes, Kirkland Signature, Fruit of the Loom, Merona, and Jockey do not fit most men well. Why?

• Many of these shirts tend to be thick and boxy rather than thin and body conforming. 

• Due to the boxy style, these shirts run short.  Many men need to purchase one size larger in order to allow enough length to properly tuck the undershirt in. 

• Regardless, these shirts are still not long enough for most men and ride up throughout the day causing even your fitted dress shirts to puff out around your waist.

• Lower quality undershirts add bulk under clothing, especially in the arms and waist.  This can create unfair and unsightly "love handles" as the extra material bunches together when the man tucks it in to his pants. 

• Some men wear pants that don't fit well because they require a larger waist size in order to allow enough room to tuck in the thick, boxy undershirt along with the top layers.  Changing their undershirt may actually allow them to buy pants that fit and look better!

• Thick undershirts add warmth, which in warm climates and heated office buildings can lead to more perspiration. 

• Lastly, inexpensive undershirts don't wash well.  The collar comes out wrinkled and puckered and won't lay flat unless you iron it.  I refuse to iron an undershirt!

As for fabric; thinner, higher quality cotton or stretch modal blends (a combination of cotton and synthetic fibers that create a smooth look and stretchy feel that retains it shape) are best.

So, what undershirts do I recommend?  For men making the transition forward from the Hanes level, I recommend Calvin Klein cotton undershirts ($29.99 for a three pack).  While pricier than Hanes, they are still affordable, and are as readily available as Hanes in most department stores, outlet or discount stores where if you are lucky, you can get them for $15 a package!).  Calvin Klein undershirts wash well and the collar stays flat.  They are reasonably fitted and long enough for the average torso.  The material is thin without being see-through and the arms are tapered to prevent bulk.  They come in crew neck, v-neck and tank style and most importantly, men report they are very comfortable.  You may need to buy one size smaller than you usually do to get the best fit (they run long so pick the size for your torso).

A level above would be the Calvin Klein or 2-Xist brand undershirts made in a stretchy micro modal blend.  These run about $25-35 per shirt, but are extremely fitted, smooth and comfortable.

For the ultimate undershirt, may I recommend a Tommy John Stay Tucked Undershirt. It's long, it's fitted, super soft and whisper thin.

From a woman's perspective:
I don't mind seeing a man's white undershirt showing under a v-neck sweater as long as it's thin, clean and with a flat, narrow collar.  I think it looks crisp, respectful and professional in a masculine American Man way.  However, I think a handsome man wearing a sweater or open collared dress shirt with no visible undershirt can look quite sexy and stylish as long as he has a reasonably masculine build and wears his style and sexuality well.  This is more of a European look and in some stylish locations and business sectors; acceptable on a daily basis.  However, in more traditional business or for American men in general, I recommend they wear an undershirt and save the sexy look for dinner dates and evening events.

For more information about men's undershirts, tips for how to wear them and beyond, no one says it better than The Undershirt Guy. 

-Lisa Bruckner Hendricks Park

Men's Cargo Pants

While shopping online yesterday, I noticed a recurrent trend on each site I visited: men's cargo pants on sale or clearance.  I felt a rush of excitement at the thought of never seeing a grown man wear these pocket friendly pants again!  However, as a realist, I understand cargo pants have a purpose, place and time.  Let's discuss these.

The purpose of cargo pants is to hold things. But really: How many toys do you need to carry with you in one day?

If you work in an office or in the business sector, everything you need should be on your desk, in your briefcase or thanks to current technology; compiled onto one device like an iPhone.  Therefore, cargo pants do not belong on the business man, no matter how casual his office is. 

That brings us to place.  The place for cargo pants is simple: anywhere you need to be (usually outdoors) where you require many, many, pockets to hold things you can't carry in another manner.  For example: the dad taking his kids to the park (pockets for diapers, snacks, sippy cups, etc.).  Cargo pants are ideal for the great outdoors, expeditions, and careers that require you to work in the rough.  Going camping?  Put on those cargo pants!  Going to the office?  Put the cargo pants down!                                                    

 Lastly, let's talk about time.  The best time to wear cargo pants is when you don't need to worry about your appearance.  This is a key point to remember.  Cargo pants are not attractive, nor flattering unless you are a muscular man in uniform who is not wearing a shirt.  I understand you think cargo pants look cool in that "I want to be outdoorsy, comfortable and slightly dangerous" way.  However, after you wash them and the pocket flaps stand up above your bun cheeks in high salute and the thigh pockets are so wrinkled they look like mummified remains, they just don't look that good on.  To me, cargo pants are a wannabe indulgence of the urban man.  It's like the guy who drives a hummer down Fifth Avenue.  Those potholes are so dangerous, man.  

Now, let's jump back to purpose, if you truly must carry your iPod, flask, sewing kit and hair product everywhere you go, may I please suggest a tasteful murse?  For you manly men who need to travel hands-free, may I suggest the truly cool ScotteVest.  Some of these jackets look like they are straight out of the Swat Team supply room and have 352 pockets! 

My goal is to help men look their best.  Therefore, I recommend it's time you pack those cargo's away for the weekend adventures and buy some flat-front chinos or dark denim jeans instead.

Since men like rules, here's one to follow: cargo pants should only be worn with athletic shoes (including hiking or combat boots) or vintage sneakers.  If you are wearing them right now with your dress shoes or casual, leather lace ups, it's not the best look for you. 

If you don't do your own laundry, consider this: the person who does your laundry will shout for joy when they no longer have to check all six pockets of your pants every time they launder them.  Pack those pocketedy pants up for them, if you won't do it for yourself.

Here's a fun link to a blog from a man who just loves wearing his cargo pants.  Splendicity blog post about cargo pants

— Lisa Bruckner, CEO and co-Founder Hendricks Park 

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Tweets on Business Casual

A few weeks ago I created a Twitter Search for "business casual" on my tweet deck.   I was curious to see how often people talked about the dress code; business casual.  Within seconds of creating the search, my tweet deck began singing a steady tune, mostly to the chime of complaints, tattles and uncertainty. 

I am still working on a post that will help de-mystify the broad term of business casual.  While most of it is written, I am still searching for those perfect images to illustrate my points.  In the meantime, I thought I would share a few of the more interesting tweets from my business casual search.  They are ordered by date, nothing else.  Enjoy!

1. In going for 'business casual', I think I overshot and hit 'sunday best'  nicreations, 4/15/09
2. No one told me I was supposed to wear a suit... I hate being the only schmuck in business casual. Ugh.  scottmurphy,  4/15/09
3. Whos that fly guy that all the chicks want? BUSINESS CASUAL. Dammmn right.  mexibear,  4/15/09
4. You ne'er-do-wells who won't iron your shirts: this is business casual not a party.  linsley_joy, 4/15/09
5. A guy in our office is wearing slippers. It's weird. But in fairness, I'm as confused as anybody about the Business Casual dress code here. nicholasorton, 4/14/09
6. @Amuseconsulting also having trouble accessorizing today. What's the dress code? Business casual or casual business?  shanegibson, (re-tweeting: amuseconsulting), 4/14/09
7. Hey twitter, what is business casual? Do slacks and a polo count?  ashanan, 4/13/09
8. My daughter is going on a field trip today. The teacher told her to dress "business casual". My daughter is 13.  energized, Tues 4/7/09
9. about to show @therichbrooks how fast I go from bum in dirty cargo pants and hoodie to stylish business casual.  benipsen, Tues 4/7/09
10. isn't used to the East Coast definition of "business casual". antcreed, Mon 4/6/09
11. My neighbors clothes resemble 'superhero' more than 'business casual'. an_dre, Mon 4/6/09
12. Really, the hardest part about Law school is transforming my wardrobe from an artsy college kid's to a business casual superstar. bobblahblawg, Sat 4/4/09

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Are you this man?

Here is a photo of man I ran into yesterday who allowed me to take his photo for Wasabi Nights.  He caught my eye right away for three reasons:

1.  His shoes were fabulous.  They were a perfect example of a leather loafer done right.  They were well taken care of (not scuffed or worn). They had a modern shaped toe (longer and NOT rounded) and looked masculine and polished yet comfortable all at the same time.

2.  His pleated pants with the cuffed hem were a nice fabric and length but would have been much more attractive and flattering in a flat-front, cuff-less style.  As a successful man in his thirties wearing modern shoes, the cuffed hem and pleated front seemed out of place (like he borrowed them from an older Uncle or perhaps from the back of his closet circa 1995).  This man is VERY fit and athletic but his pleated pants added unnecessary inches to his thighs and hips.  See: How to know if you are wearing the right pants for more information about the do's and don'ts of men's pleated pants.

3.  His soft shell jacket paired with his dress slacks and urban, leather, loafers were as odd as the weather was that day (sunny and hailing).  It reminded me of those flip books where you could change the top half and bottom half of the character and create funny mixtures of opposites.

When I mentioned the interesting jacket choice to Mr. X, he volunteered he wouldn't mind wearing a blazer and knows it would be more appropriate but "no one wears that in this (casual) town." Then, he shrugged his shoulders in defeat.  I was saddened to hear a very attractive, successful man give up on the idea of a blazer because other people in the town don't do it. I would think a man like him, who I know is a respected leader amongst his friends, would ignore the fashion faux pas of others and forge ahead with what he knows looks good.

There are many advantages to living in a casual Pacific Northwest town; a casual dress code can be one of them.  However, please don't mistake frumpy for casual.  I am encountering too many men in their thirties and beyond who would like (even if it's just secretly) to wear a nicer jacket or blazer but are afraid to stand out as too dressed up.  While Trunk Club is desperately searching for that magic hybrid of North Face meets Blazer, it's not an easy find.  Perhaps it's because it shouldn't exist.  It's time the uber business casual folk realize it feels nice to look good.  Wearing a jacket that matches your business look isn't a stand against casual, it's a measure of respect towards your workplace and industry.  Dressing nicely for work says you want to be there, you are proud of what you do.  Looking good for work also says you respect yourself.

Ask around.  Ask your female co-workers, your girlfriends and wives.  You may be surprised to hear how they would LOVE to see you dress nicer for work!  If you need advice on how to wear a blazer click: how to wear a blazer for business casual or casual done well

If one man in each business casual office where the North Face jacket pervades became a leader and started wearing a blazer or nicer jacket to work, other men would follow.  If you are all waiting for the other guy to do it, it will never happen. 

Who will take the first step?  Will you be the leader?

If there is one thing I am certain; your bravery will be rewarded, because you won't be alone for long. 

A personal thank you to Mr. X.  He is a great guy with a lovely family and I truly appreciate his participation in this post.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Men's Shoes I Love

Those who know me personally know; I love shoes. 

Wednesday, Trunk Club Corporate asked me to send a quick wish list to the Product Division for some different clothing items I had in mind for some of my clients.  While researching the masses, I came across a few shoes I loved for a variety of different reasons.  They aren't right for every man, but they are great shoes!

John Varvatos Slip-On

365.00     I LOVE this shoe and while it's price point is higher than some men would like, it's such a modern and versatile shoe for the business casual man.  It would go great with jeans or chinos and would be a comfortable, yet modern shoe a man could wear for years.

John Lobb Vale Buckle Loafer

1560.00      This is way off the charts for most guys price-wise and I am not normally a fan of the buckled men's shoe, but the proportions and placement are perfect in this shoe.  Even though many men would say they don't like the side buckle or pointed toe, once they put it on, I think they would see and feel it's power.  It would look very masculine on the man.  I picture these with a suit, with slacks and a dress shirt, or even with dark, premium denim and an un-tucked dress shirt.  These shoes ooze power and success.

Ermenegildo Zegna Leonardo Lace-Up

950.00     J'adore.  Too expensive for most, but that is what a wish list is for!  This shoe is original, a stand out, without being over done.  If you look at it closely, the leather looks like a polished saddle; with masculine texture and depth.  The perfect marriage of rugged and sophisticated.  These would look awesome with a suit, or slacks or even premium denim and a sharp blazer.  Magnifique!!

	Nike 'Air Pegasus 83' Sneaker (Men) $68.00

This is one of my favorite, vintage sneakers right now.  It's simple, classic and versatile enough to go with everything casual.  And, it's more unique than the over-used Jack Purcell look.  The man in Trader Joes who had on the Hudson jeans was wearing these (see my previous post What is Premium Denim?).

	Mezlan 'Carmichael' Oxford $195.00   To Boot New York 'Amherst' Oxford $295.0

Here are two examples of solid, reasonably affordable, basic dress shoes.  They are the classic go-to for a polished business look.  

John Varvatos Aged Lace-Up

375.00

Here is a great option for men who like the more rugged look.  I am not a huge fan of the "suede-buck" boot which to me always look like Grandpa shoes or wanna-be preppy.  However, these are a nicer version that still looks like a shoe, but function almost like a short boot.  Comfortable and mildly sophisticated, a man could wear these with denim or chinos.  A great transition for men who love to wear hiking boots!

In summary: A common response I hear from Trunk Club men is they want to have their own look, something unique, even if it's just "conservative with a twist."   Shoes say a lot about a person and are one of the best ways for men to distinguish themselves from the masses.  Men don't have as many options to diversify their look since you're pretty much stuck with pants or shorts and a shirt compared to women who have significantly more choices (dresses, skirts, pants, leggings, shorts, etc.).  Listen up men!  Shoes are a great way to mark your personal style.

Please keep in mind that your shoes are the anchor of your outfit.  Don't let bad shoes sink your look.  For example, the man wearing a nice shirt and slacks who then finishes his outfit with inappropriate or worn, scuffed, shoes ruined any chance the nice shirt and slacks had at making him look good.  When you want to feel more confident at work or want to have an edge of style when you go out, put your best foot forward.  Wear some nice shoes.  Although they are one of the last things you put on, they are one of the first things people notice.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant