Wasabi Nights

Men's Shirts: Tucked or Un-tucked? Crew neck or V-neck?

   
I am going to cut right to the chase.  I prefer the look of a man wearing his shirt tucked in with a belt.  Of course, there are always exceptions (especially in casual wear), but in general, even a T-shirt looks better when tucked in with a belt.  Read on for why.

Please look at the photos above and notice a few important details: 

1. An un-tucked shirt, while comfortable and popular with men (notice I didn't say women), tends to make the man look shorter and wider.  In the photos above it's the same man, same clothing, different appearance and presentation.
2. If Mr. Slim above at a whopping 6' 5" looks a bit shorter and wider with his shirt un-tucked, imagine what it does for the shorter, stockier fellows.
3. The white, crew-neck undershirt, which is widely favored by men, especially in the tech industries, interrupts the line (the visual line that runs from your neck to your toes) and as most interruptions tend to do; makes him look wider and shorter. 
4. The images where he is wearing a v-neck undershirt show a more sophisticated, modern look.  The line is clean and you see the man as a whole; versus a white shirt first and then the man.  If you don't know what I mean, look at the images again.  The first two, your eye runs smoothly over.  The third image, your eye darts back and forth between the white undershirt and the rest of his clothing.
5. Men seem to equate a tucked in shirt with being formal and stuffy.  On the contrary, it can be casual and comfortable in a polished, confident way.  The first image of jeans and a dress shirt, tucked in with the sleeves rolled up, is clearly casual and wouldn't ever pass for formal business attire.  Is your definition of "casual" stuck in your college-era wardrobe?
6. I've noticed men tend to stand straighter and look more confident when they tuck their shirt in.  It makes sense since it's easier to slouch and let your gut hang out so to speak when your shirt is un-tucked.  

When you are hanging out with the guys after work at the bar, un-tuck your shirt and slouch away.  When you want to look your best, I recommend you tuck your shirt in and if wearing an open collar, switch out your crew neck undershirt for a v-neck.  If you are wearing your shirt tucked in, please wear a belt.  Even better, please wear a nice looking belt.  It's an accessory people do notice and one that should be kept up to date and in good condition.  Just because you have a belt doesn't mean you should wear that belt.

The images in this article are all thanks to my favorite Trunk Club man (my Hubbie) wearing some of his Trunk Club clothing.  The photo shoot wasn't staged, this is what he actually wore to work that day.  Trust me, it took a great deal of begging to get him to agree to be my model for this article! 

For inquiring minds: He is wearing a pair of Seven For All Mankind boot-cut jeans, a Tallia plaque belt and a blue, pinstriped dress shirt from Arbitrage (which is a new clothing line that I will review very soon). 

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Expert

Men's Undershirts: A Visual Comparison of Five Different Brands

Here are five different brands of undershirts. Each has been worn and laundered repeatedly. What may look nice in the package, doesn't always look nice on the man, especially after you wash it.

For more information about the different brands I reviewed, see one of my recent articles.

Men's Tips for Wearing Shorts

Here is a picture of a man I saw in Los Angeles last month.  The photo is enlarged so you can see the details of his clothing. 

While I think this man is making a conscious effort to look good while wearing shorts; I see many ways we can help improve his look.

The Shirt: He looks like he is wearing a blouse.  While I like the look of a casual dress shirt tucked in with shorts (and a belt), the shirt should fit the man.  Notice the shoulder seams are hanging down over the edge of his shoulders?  Ideally, they should be flush with the edge of his shoulder.  The baggy waist needs no explanation.  I trimmer fit would help this man look trimmer!

2.  The Belt: Yes, belts do apply for shorts.  If you are tucking your shirt in, please wear a belt.  Leather belts are classy and elegant, but canvas belts, tie belts, etc. can be a fun alternative.  NOTE: please keep the dying snake tucked into a belt loop.  If you have a limp belt hanging off your hip, you need a shorter belt!

3.  The Shorts: Flat front is the most flattering style and finding the balance between comfortable and fitted is key.  Ideally, you should be able to keep your shorts up comfortably without a belt.  However, your shorts shouldn't be so tight you can't sit comfortably in them.  Ideally, you should be able to stick two fingers into your waistband and not feel like someone is stabbing you.  If you can fit more than two fingers, your shorts might be too big (and baggy).  This is the same rule of thumb for pants.  Find shorts that fit as well as your best pants and you may have a winner.

4.  Length:  Like pants, length is key.  For a timelessly good look, buy shorts that come down to the area right above your knee.  I don't recommend shorts that come much below the knee (skater or capris style).  If you are a shorter man, find shorts that come in a shorter inseam so you can show your knees a tad bit more and help elongate the look of your legs.  Bonobos have some great options because they offer their shorts in regular length and long length. Taller men should do the opposite and find longer inseams so they don't show too much leg in order to balance their overall appearance; avoiding the dreaded "giraffe legs."  

5. What shirt do you wear with shorts?  A polo or T-shirt is a common choice.  Both are quite casual, but at least the polo has a tad bit of decorum and can can get you a pass into the country club.  Another recommended option is a casual, long sleeve dress shirt, worn comfortably fitted through the torso and unbuttoned at the neck.  Roll the sleeves up, tuck the shirt in and finish it with a belt, loafers or boat shoes (no socks!) and you have a timelessly, elegant summer look. 

Notice, I did not mention a baggy, silky bermuda shirt.  I am not sure why men think these shirts look good on.  They are the shape of a box, hang on the man's body like wilting foliage; and for larger men, all I need to say is they look even larger.  So long Santa, no Christmas in July for us!         

Polos are not the only thing you can wear with shorts.  However, they are a common choice for men who want a sporty look that is dressier than a T-shirt.  You can go the simple, solid route like the Lacoste option on the right, or you can wear a polo with a bit more interest and style such as the striped Penguin polo on the left.  If you are a polo guy, with a closet full of solid polos in every color of the rainbow, it might be fun to try something new this summer like a patterned polo.  There are tons of options available.

6.  Shoes with shorts: The key here is no socks (unless you are a fashionisto and making a statement with your dress socks & spectators).  Casual loafers, boat shoes, drivers, clean and nice flip flops, slides and sandals are all options.  For your best look, remember that athletic gear (including water sandals like TEVA's) are best paired with athletic clothing.  Pair your REI shoes with REI clothing.  If you are a grown, successful man who is still wearing his TEVA's everywhere he goes, it might be time to invest in some nicer leather, summer shoes. 

When wearing shorts, your shoes help balance your look.  If you have skinny legs, pick unobtrusive shoes like leather flip flops, drivers or top siders in a lighter color (brown is better than black if you are going on the dark side).  For men with larger legs, pick shoes that have a more substantial look to them (more shoe showing; like a slide or boat shoe) to balance the size of your legs.  More shoe for more leg; less shoe for less leg.  It's not about length, it's about leg width.

7.  The cut:  Picking the right cut or style of shorts for you body is key.  See the two examples below:

The shorts on the left are a straight cut.  This style is the most flattering for most body types.  The shorts on the left are a tapered cut.  I do not recommend this style for men with larger waists or larger rear ends.  The tapered style can easily give you the appearance of hips if you aren't careful.  Some men can look great in this style, but I don't recommend it for most men.  

In all honesty, men's shorts are probably one of my least favorite articles of men's clothing.  However, as a realist, I understand they do have an important place in a man's wardrobe.  Looking bad in shorts is quite easy.  Looking good in shorts, takes a bit of effort and attention to detail, but it's well worth the effort.  Stay cool this summer, and look your best while you are at it.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Expert

Men's Shorts: Lisa's Recommendations For Summer 2009

Here are a few shorts I recommend; and don't recommend, for the everyman's man this summer season:

Every man should have a pair of white, flat front shorts in his closet. This example is from Bonobos and it comes in Regular or Long to custom fit different height and leg lengths.  White shorts are a classic, summer staple and can easily be dressed up or down.

 

Here are two, timelessly, classic examples.  On the right is a linen, flat front short from Joseph Abboud; a very elegant look. 

On the left is a traditional, flat front houndstooth short by Theory.  

While I don't recommend shorts for the business workplace, these shorts would be appropriate for an elegant, outdoor picnic on a hot, summer day.  The edgier crew could have fun wearing these in a formal meets casually hip combination.

I like these plaid shorts for their clean lines and modern, playful look.  They would be versatile options to dress up with a dress shirt or polo; or dress down with a T-shirt.  Please wear a belt with them if you are tucking your shirt in (which I recommend for a mature and polished look).  These three examples are from Canterbury of New Zealand, Original Penguin and Ben Sherman respectively.

  

Here are three more patterned options I like.  The first is a casually polished plaid by 7 For All Mankind.  The second is a pinstriped short from Lacoste (I know it looks like a solid from afar, but that is the magic of pinstripe!).  The third is a fun plaid that has a playfully European look to it and a very nice shape.  It's a "washed canvas short" by Penguin.  Very Sherlock Holmes.

Yes, collared shirts are required on the golf course, however pleated pants are not.  These pleats date your look, and age you unnecessarily.  They can also give you a saggy rear and pear shaped hips. Need I say more?  I recommend you replace your pleated shorts with some of the aforementioned flat front options.

 

Darling, these are not shorts, they are called capris.  Unless you are going for the capris look, I suggest you pack up these cargo-capris and buy some shorts, man.

 

Another example of cargo shorts (which I am not a fan of unless you really need six or more pockets on your pants).  Many designer shorts this season have drawstrings at the hem.  I am not a fan of this look because it breaks the visual line (which runs from your neck to your toes) and in my opinion, looks goofy (unless you are playing flag football).

I feel a bit incomplete because I didn't recommended seersucker short.  However, I haven't found a pair I love this season. Let me know if you have a good suggestion.

My next post will include tips on how to wear shorts well to look your best.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Expert