Wasabi Nights

How to Coordinate Patterns...does this tie go with this shirt?

Coordinating patterns is not always intuitive, but the pay-off is great.  Unfortunately, many men give up before they even try.  They wear all solids and if they do wear a pattern (like a striped shirt or patterned tie), they wear solids every where else. Here are some guidelines to you pattern-challenged men out there.

1.  Many men assume if they wear a patterned tie, they must wear a solid shirt.  False!

  2.  Any shirt that has a single color pattern on it (ignoring the white background) such as a pinstripe, check, plaid, etc. can be considered for all intensive purposes a "solid" shirt. For example, the grey plaid shirt on the far right can be considered a "solid" white shirt.  A blue and white pinstripe shirt can be considered a white shirt if the pinstripes are thin and spaced far apart.  Conversely, consider it a "solid" blue shirt (see above) if the stripes are so close together the optical illusion is that it's a solid blue from a distance. 

If you consider shirts like this a solid shirt then coordinating a patterned tie or jacket becomes much easier.  However, unlike a true solid shirt you have a little more style and interest to your look!

3.  You don't have to match the pattern of your tie to the pattern of your dress shirt.  Contrast is recommended!

4.  If you are wearing a vertical stripe shirt, it's nice to select a tie with a contrasting pattern (plaid, windowpane, paisley, floral, stylish geometric, dots, etc.).  A striped tie is ok, but mix it up sometimes!

5.  The key is to create contrast and interest.  Too much matching leaves you with a dull look.

6.  Balance is another key to success when coordinating patterns.  If you have more than one bold pattern and you feel like a clown, it's because the patterns are competing against each other instead of coordinating with each other. (see the example at the very bottom of this article)

For example, I love the shirt and tie below (right), but not together.  The large coin pattern on the tie is unbalanced with the thin stripe on the shirt.  A better combination would be the orange geometric tie (below) with a smaller scale print that balances the narrow stripe better.

7.  There is such a thing as too much of a good thing.  Too many patterns can overwhelm the senses and instead of looking stylish, you may just look stupid.

8.  Start slow...pick a stripe shirt and coordinate it with a contrasting pattern (a windowpane, glen plaid, check, paisley, dot-all the rage now-or floral).  This can be a tie, a jacket, trousers, a scarf, what have you.  Just go on and put the two together, make sure the colors coordinate (they don't have to match!  just look good together) and then go out and let the compliments pour in.  After that, you will be able to recognize the value of coordinating multiple patterns and will be able to "own" bolder combinations and find your inner chemist!  Mix away!
 
This photo, captured by The Sartorialist, is a perfect example for three reasons. 

While I think this man would probably look stylish in a paper bag, I do feel he is demonstrating the competing pattern problem I previously mentioned (the suit is a bold choice, but it's the shirt that sends his look over the edge in my opinion). 

However, he is beautifully demonstrating how to balance patterns with regards to scale.  The check and geometric patterns on his tie, suit and dress shirt while competing, are nicely balanced with regards to scale (size).

Lastly, and most importantly, style isn't something you wear, it's something you own, and it comes from within.  It's a confidence that some are born with, some are raised with and some learn by pushing their boundaries step by step until it comes naturally.  Don't be afraid to push your comfort zone a bit and learn to own your style.  It's one of my favorite parts of being a Trunk Club Expert...I get to see it happen everyday!

-Lisa Bruckner, Trunk Club Expert

What color goes with...Does this match?

Does this match?  I hear this question so often I chuckle each time I hear it.  Men, please take a deep breath and repeat after me..."I don't match, I coordinate!"

The man in this photo for example; captured and documented on The Sartorialist, is a nice, mainstream example of how you can wear four different colors together at the same time.  Sure, the pin dots play off each other in a potentially matching way; but nothing "matches" the blue shirt.  It's just a pop of color that coordinates wonderfully with the brown suit and burgundy tie.  Additionally, it's a great example of how you can mix different browns together.

Since you men like rules and guidelines, I will educate you in this format:

Matching Rules:

1.  Your socks should match the color of your PANTS.

2.  When wearing a formal suit, your suit jacket should perfectly match your suit pants (thus, always wear and dry clean them together).

3.  Another rule about formal wear; your dress shoes and dress belt should generally match (same color!).

4.  For a sleek, elegant look, go for the monochromatic style: your shirt, pants, shoes, belt, etc. are all the same color.  Or, wear all black clothing and a rich dark brown for the accessories (shoes and belt).  Yes, you can wear dark brown with black!

5.  If you are wearing black separates (items bought separately from different dye lots or different brands) make sure the black perfectly matches the other black pieces.  Nothing looks tackier than a man wearing black pants and a completely different hue of black jacket or shirt, etc.  Black is one of the toughest to match to be honest.

6.  Your pocket square does not need to match your tie.  Yes, you can, but you can also pick a coordinating color to add interest and a pop of color.  See the photo above for example.

 
How to Coordinate color:

1.  Don't match!!!!

2.  If you are wearing brown shoes, wear a brown belt, but they don't have to be the exact same color brown.  They just need to coordinate and be "similar" in hue (same type of brown-dark, light, red undertones, etc.).

3.  Think about colors that coordinate well together.  For example, turquoise and brown coordinate beautifully.  Olive green and pink/purple are awesome.  They don't match, they coordinate and add interest to each other. 

4.  Orange is a fabulous accent color, even for the timid.  Don't be afraid to coordinate orange accents into your wardrobe.  See how nicely the orange and lavender look together?  An orange tie like this would look fabulous with most dress shirt colors and would really add interest to a brown, black or navy suit or sport coat.

5.  When coordinating a tie to a dress shirt, you don't need to match the color of the tie to something in the dress shirt pattern!  Instead, make sure they coordinate (do these colors look good next to each other?).

6.  Dark brown shoes look amazing with black pants (and most other colors to be honest).  I repeat, yes, you can wear brown and black together!

7.  Grey also looks amazing with brown.  The lighter the grey, the lighter the brown (and vice verse).

8.  People who wear their style well and get a second, third, etc. look from others are those who wear a completely monochromatic look OR those who understand that matching is for the birds and coordinating is the key.  They mix different colors, sometimes incorporating bold, subdued and contrasting color all into one look.  See photo at right.

9.  Next time you get dressed, don't think "does this match?"  Instead, think "does it coordinate?"

The man in the photo to the right is a great example of a man who would get a second look.  While I feel the balance of his choices is a little off (his long legs are overly accented due to the short vest), his overall look is interesting and sophisticated.  The turquoise blue shirt pops and complements the mixture of browns.  I love how he mixes black and near-black accessories into his look.  And his hat is amazing and I would love to see more men wear hats (I think you might enjoy the weather protection too for those of you with short hair cuts!).

I'm curious... if I came up with a "manly" version of Garanimal-inspired tags for men's clothing, would you like this?  Basically, it would be a clothing tag where fashion-challenged men knew which items "match" and thus take the guesswork out of getting dressed.  I'm curious to hear what your thoughts are.

Kudos to Trunk Club members Mr. MD and Mr. MC for helping me formulate the idea!

-Lisa Bruckner, Trunk Club Expert

How to Roll Your Sleeves Well

NOTE: On Monday, 8/3 I posted this article for a little under 2 hours.  I temporarily removed it because my gracious sleeve model's site was down for server updates.  Out of respect to him, I waited to re-post until his site was back up.  If you missed the article the first time, I hope you enjoy it now. -Lisa

In the modern world, business-casual attire is replacing the formal business suit.  I, personally like to see men do business in a nicely tailored suit.  It's elegantly powerful and frees men from the issues of what to wear and how to wear it.  However, until the pendulum swings back in my favor, the ever so comfortable business-casual uniform will prevail.

For those of you in the business casual world who appropriately wear a dress shirt to work (commonly referred by men as a "button up"), I applaud your efforts.  However, those efforts often go unnoticed when you don't know how to roll your sleeves up well.

I recently had a conversation about just this issue with a fellow blogger from the uber cool, man-friendly website 21gent.  He graciously agreed to be my model for this article and demonstrate the highs and lows of rolling your shirt sleeves.

Men's Sleeve Rolling Etiquette:

1.  If you roll your shirt sleeves in the business workplace, please do so respectably; keep it neat, tidy, polished.

2.  If you are layering a sweater over your dress shirt, simply roll the cuff back once over the end of your sweater sleeve and push the sleeves up to your mid-forearm for a business casual look.

3.  Wearing a tie?  Please don't roll your sleeves at all. Keep them cuffed and polished (unless you are making a fashion statement and then all bets are off).

4.  If you are wearing a dress shirt without a jacket and tie, unbutton your cuff, and carefully fold it back twice; ensuring it lays flat and never goes past your elbow.

5.  I encourage you to roll your sleeves when you want to look polished but not stuffy in semi-casual attire.  For example: when wearing a dress shirt tucked in with denim or casual pants (without a tie or jacket).

6.  If you roll your sleeves up above your elbow, this is called a short sleeve shirt!

Unfortunately, I see men do this regularly in the business world.  The man in the photo (above) looks like he is ready to go, the man to the right looks like he is ready for a fist fight.  Rolling your sleeves up this high is also the classic college dude look.  You decide, are you a dude, or a man?

When you roll your sleeves up too high, the sleeve material bunches up and creates a funny looking shape for your biceps.  For men with a larger physique, rolling your sleeves up this high will create a very unbalanced appearance when you are dressed well everywhere else. 

7.  Surprisingly, the most attractive way to dress is actually to show less and make people think more; leave something for the imagination.  When you roll your sleeves just twice and they lay flat across your forearm, it actually accentuates your hands in an appealing way (you often hear women talking about men with strong hands, or the size of his hands, etc.). 

8.  You may need to play with the buttons on your sleeves a bit to determine which ones should be un-buttoned for you to get a smooth fit after you fold it. 

9.  If you need to roll your sleeves three or four times for it to lay flat against your forearm, you are probably wearing the wrong size shirt (e.g. your sleeve length is too long). 

 10.  Some men only like to roll their cuff back once and then push it up the rest of the way.  If so, iron your cuff back in the morning so as to create "fabric memory" to aid you in your efforts.  No matter how cool your cuff lining is, it's not a great look when the cuff is a wide cone around your wrist.  Many men see models in catalogs wearing their cuffs like this (see left); however they are simply modeling the cuff lining-not how you should actually wear it! I recommend folding it twice.

Thank you to 21gent for agreeing to model his sleeves for this article. He is a true gentleman; which is probably why I like his site so much, despite the fact that it's content is solid manspeak (it's great for you men out there though!). 

-Lisa Bruckner, Trunk Club Expert

Arbitrage Dress Shirts: A Personal Review

I recently learned about a new clothing line called Arbitrage.  It's based out of New York City and is the brainchild of three fresh upstarts who were tired of baggy, boxy, dress shirts that were also too long to wear un-tucked (i.e. after work).  Arbitrage dress shirts are designed to offer men an off the rack, tailored fit.  Their shirts are made from 100% cotton, but boast a luxurious jacquard look and feel (silky smooth without looking "silky").  Lastly, they are designed to appeal to the modern man's style; he wants something he can wear to work, then un-tuck, roll the sleeves up and go out after work-without having to go home and change first.  They say it's well worth the price of $148 a shirt.

After seeing one of these shirts up close and personal (on my dear husband); I had to agree with their claims.  The shirt was indeed everything they said.  My husband is 6'5" without shoes and has a 32" waist.  Basically, he has alien proportions.  Finding shirts for him that are both long enough in the arms and torso, but fitted enough for his narrow frame is next to impossible.  Even most slim fit options are quite baggy on him.  Did I mention he eats a pint of ice cream a night?  Yes, you may get the voo doo doll ready!

The Arbitrage shirt fit him better than any shirt he owned.  The shirt is long enough for him to tuck in comfortably, but short and straight enough for him to wear un-tucked.  The look and feel are wonderful and the shirt has been quite forgiving with my absent-minded laundry techniques.

What appealed to me as a Trunk Club Expert were the three different fit options, and the unique patterns and details that would fit the bill for many of my TC members.  A common request I hear is for a better fitting dress shirt with an interesting look.

First, let's talk about the fit.  For the slender man, they offer a "Slim Fit" which is very narrow through the torso and arms.  Let me clarify here when I say narrow, I don't mean tight, just narrow so it actually offers a tailored fit for the Slim Jim's out there.

For men with broader shoulders, larger chests and bigger biceps, they offer a "Tailored Fit" which offers a bit more room in these areas but still tapers in at the waist to give them a comfortably tailored fit.

Lastly, they have a "Classic Fit" which is the widest and boxiest fit they offer; but by no means the typical Classic Fit (a.k.a. Monsieur Box).  The Arbitrage Classic Fit offers moderately larger men the option of a tailored fit dress shirt.  It's actually quite slimming and once the men get accustomed to the feel of a tailored fit shirt, they feel great in it (I am sure the compliments help!).

Arbitrage dress shirts come in French Cuff and Barrel Cuff options but I've noticed their barrel cuffs are actually a chic hybrid between the french and barrel.  The cuffs button together, however they do it in the traditional kissing method typically used in french cuffs.  Men love the look of them and I think they are a fabulous detail.  Unlike true french cuffs, its quick and easy to roll the cuffs up for a casual look.

Another detail that men (and women) appreciate is the fabric.  It's luxuriously soft to the touch, and I've had quite a few "complaints" lately from men saying women can't stop touching their shirt.  (Ladies, I don't think they are truly complaining ;).  I say it's a pettable shirt if I dare label it as such. 

Not only is the fabric soft to the touch, but many of their patterns and colors are appealing to the eye and not your average run of the mill solids and vertical stripes. 

My husband, a man of few words when it comes to clothing, recently said out of the blue to me; "My Arbitrage shirt is my favorite shirt."  Choking back shock at his fashion revelation, I said "Hmmm, tell me why?"  His reply was quick and to the point "I like the fit.  It's a good looking shirt."

Recently, a Trunk Club member who gave me his permission to tell his story in this article, told me he's received quite a few compliments and comments about his new Arbitrage shirt.  MC, is a man who works in the financial industry, which by nature is a sea of suits, dress shirts and slacks.  To receive compliments about your dress shirt in this environment is quite a plus!  He sent me a direct tweet yesterday saying "chalk up another compliment for the Arbitrage shirt!"

I think the shirts offer a great option for an off the rack, tailored fit.  Clothing that fits better, looks better. 

Arbitrage also offers ties, cuff links and some funky, hooded dress shirts that I was skeptical about until I saw MC try one on.  He looked awesome in it and I think it's a great option for hip, casual wear.

NOTE: While I am a true fan of the shirts, I am not a huge fan of their website.  I don't think it does their product justice and most of the shirts I have seen on Trunk Club members are not even shown on the website.  Such is the problem with on-line shopping.  You often see items that are out of date and in photos that don't accurately represent the merchandise you are buying.  Arbitrage shirts are sold in a few stores, but in limited runs.  You really need to see, touch and try on these shirts to appreciate them and determine if they are right for you.

If you are interested in trying some Arbitrage shirts on but don't have time or interest in shopping (which shirt?  which fit?  which color/pattern?), I invite you to try out the Trunk Club.  We help men buy clothing the way they always wanted to; easy, efficient and fun!  It's free to join.  Members only pay for the retail price of the clothing they keep.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Expert 

A Men's Clothing Essentials List: for Business Casual Travel

When traveling to a business casual event, packing can be a challenge.  How do you define business casual?  Hmmm. What is the meaning of life?  The answers are ambiguous at best.  My vote would be to revive the classic suit as the golden standard of all business attire.  However, as a realist, I know my romantic dream may take a while to come to fruition.  So, in the meantime:

Here are some helpful tips to prepare you for a business casual trip and some clothing essentials you may need.

Essential Knowledge:

When in doubt of what to pack and how to dress, remember it's better to be slightly over-dressed than under-dressed. Wearing nice slacks and a dress shirt is a safe and respectable bet. Packing a sport coat and tie will allow you the flexibility to dress it up if needed at the last minute. When traveling to a metropolitan area or large city, assume business casual includes a sport coat if not a full suit minus the tie. Business casual is dressier by definition in the metropolis.  If you are unsure how dressy an event will be and you are traveling to a big city, it's worth it to bring a suit.  Nothing spells disaster like finding out you are the only under-dressed schmuck in the room.

Business travel is also about the night life, and schmoozing after hours.  Switching gears by switching your pants is an easy way to dress down while maintaining a polished appearance.  The dress shirt, leather shoes and even the sport coat can all go with denim jeans as long as the shoes you have are somewhat casual; wingtips and tasseled loafers should stay back at the hotel.

The people you are traveling to, don't see you everyday.  Therefore, dress to impress.  It shows respect for the people you are meeting and shows respect for the business you represent.  If you are traveling to an event with a varied dress code, think of the leaders of the group and how they will be dressed.  Respectfully emulate them.  They are the standard you should follow.

Glossary:

Dress pants or slacks are not the same thing as chinos (also commonly referred to as "khakis"). 

Chinos; synonymous with Khakis are usually mid to heavyweight cotton or cotton blend casual slacks in the most common form.  There are some designer chinos that resemble dress slacks, but for general use, chinos or khakis are your typical cotton casual pants.

Dress pants or slacks are usually made from thinner, smoother materials with a refined drape. 

Sporty-Casual is almost always defined by chinos and a polo shirt, tucked in with a coordinating belt and leather shoes.

City-Casual is most often a suit without the tie, or nice dress slacks/pants with a sport coat and dress shirt.

Urban-Casual is premium denim jeans paired with a dress shirt, modern leather shoes and a sportcoat/blazer.

The Clothing Essential List:

1. Buy a few pairs of flat-front dress pants/slacks (khaki, grey and black are the basics but don't be afraid to branch out with dark brown, olive green, or navy). If you have pleated pants-it's time to replace them. If you drink coffee or are known as a drippy-sloppy-mouth eater, buy dark colors only.  You will thank me later.

2.  If you know the event is what I call "sporty-casual" then pack a few flat front chinos and nice polo shirts.  However, for a nicer touch, I would recommend khaki colored slacks and a casual button up dress shirt, with the sleeves rolled up (to dress it down).  You will still fit in with the sporty-casual code, but will send the message you mean business.

3.  Buy a pair of dark denim jeans.  Premium denim with a simple pocket (think Seven For All Mankind squiggle pocket) is an excellent choice.

4. Buy at least three well made dress shirts (blue, white and grey are essentials).  With the exception of crisp white, avoid plain, solid color dress shirts for business casual unless you are trying to look very conservative and traditional possibly to the point of snore.  Solid color shirts are also magnifying glasses for stains and spills.

5.  Buy shirts with interesting color, pattern and texture to add style and interest. Make sure they fit you well (arm length, neck and shoulders) and buy them as fitted as possible-a boxy dress shirt looks sloppy and adds extra inches unnecessarily. Avoid button down collars in professional dress shirts; even more so if you are wearing a tie.  The look dates you.

6. Especially if you are wearing simple, lower to mid-quality clothing, invest more in your accessories. A nice belt and shoes can launch your look from mall-basics to I mean business. 

7. Buy two awesome ties. Avoid cartoons or themes. Ask trusted help when selecting.

8. Make sure you have one, timelessly classic suit. If it's hanging in your closet, make sure it still fits well (seek advice).  Navy blue is classically elegant.  It also coordinates with nearly everything and unlike black, still looks good in different light levels.  (NOTE: blacks come in varying undertones: black with brown, green, blue or true black undertones.  In the wrong light, your black suit can look dingy brown or seasick green).

9. Buy a sport coat in a classic, cut and style. If you always borrow your suit coat, you will damage your suit; the color fades with wearing and washing and your pants and jacket will no longer match as one piece. A nice suit is more expensive to replace than a nice sport coat.  A solid, navy sport coat is timeless and coordinates with nearly everything.  However, don't be afraid to pick something with a little more style, such as a pinstripe, houndstooth, or plaid.  Yes, you can pair a striped shirt with a patterned sport coat.  Ask an expert for help if you are unsure how.  When it's done right, it looks amazing!

10. Buy a pair of socks to match each of your pants. Patterned is fine as long as the main color closely matches your pants.

11. Buy some white undershirts. The thinner and fitted the better to reduce bulk and heat.  See A Men's Undershirt Guide for help.

12. Buy a travel sized lint roller and don't forget to look in the mirror and spiff up before you walk out of your hotel room.  A lint roller is like white-out for the wardrobe.  You should never travel without it!

Bon voyage!

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Expert

The Versatility of French Cuffs

A common request from Trunk Club men I work with is: I want interesting, different, uniquely "cool" dress shirts.  They are tired of "boring" basics.  These men want colors, patterns, fabrics and design that help define their personal style while still being professional enough to wear to work or out to an event.  Sounds like a simple request right? 

The difficulty in meeting their request is in the cuffs.  Most men ask for shirts with a plain, button cuff.  The challenge; a majority of men's dress shirts with unique, different, stylish patterns come with a french cuff. 

Personally speaking, I love the look of french cuffs.  I think they display a respectable decorum which I admire and would like to see more of.  Yet, I understand they are not appropriate for every situation nor for every man.  However, I do believe french cuffs are more versatile than most men realize. 

Regardless, I hope men remember my golden rule as listed on my Twenty Things Men Should Know post: women always appreciate french cuffs as long as your cuff links don't sparkle more than her jewelry.

Recently, I worked with three successful businessmen who work in the tech industry.  Their dress code is very business casual.  These men all requested "cool" and unique dress shirts with button cuffs.  Trunk Club sent a few button cuff shirts in the most interesting patterns available in their price range and a few dress shirts that easily fit the "cool" bill, but came with french cuffs.

All three men loved the patterns and look of the french cuffed shirts but were uncertain how they could use them in their everyday lives.  I demonstrated (we meet live via web cam) the two different methods of french cuff closure: the kissing method, which is the classically formal closure where the cuffs pinch together and the barrel-style method where one end of the cuff overlaps the other just like a button cuff.   

I recommended the men wear these shirts to work using the barrel-style method; a less formal and more practical way for men in the business casual world to wear french cuffs.  I also pointed out how versatile french cuffs were because a man can dress them up or down depending on the look he is going for.  It's almost like two shirts in one.  You may be surprised to hear all three men chose the french cuffed shirts.

A helpful tip: when wearing french cuffs, select your cuff links or silk knots wisely.  If you are working at a keyboard most of the day, large, heavy cuff links may not be the most comfortable option.  I recommend understated cuff links to begin.  After that, skies the limit.

Here is a helpful Primer for Wearing French Cuffs

For men who feel french cuffs only belong with a tuxedo or formal suit, may I suggest the following comparison?  Women's high heeled shoes are perfectly paired with a cocktail dress or evening gown.  However, high heels also look great with denim jeans, slacks, skirts and summer frocks.  Some women wear their heels with shorter capri pants, and even shorts.  High heeled shoes help women dress up their look and add style to even the simplest clothing. 

Men are quite limited in their clothing choices.  Distinguishing your style in a sea of suits or chino tuxedos (khaki pants and blue dress shirts) can be a challenge.  French cuffs can help. 

I love the idea proposed by a new friend from twitter: @frenchcuffexec.  This man has impeccable taste and wears stylishly, elegant, business formal on a daily basis.  He recently shared some relevant and helpful tips for men on the trunk club blog: Being a Well Dressed Man in 2009.  His idea is to start a movement where men forgo casual Friday in lieu of French Cuff Friday.  He suggests you wear them with jeans, chinos, slacks etc. as a way to improve the world for 2009.  Off the cuff, between us; I think the idea is charming.  Will you try it?

For more information on men's dress shirts, The Art of Manliness is an excellent resource.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Expert

Casual Done Well

While running errands, I photographed a man I'll call Mr. K, twice in the past two weeks.  Both times, he caught my eye and stood out from the rest as a man who blends casual comfortably with style. 

The first time I saw him, I was on borrowed time, pushing my cart through the aisle like a woman on a mission.  Suddenly, I was distracted by a man walking towards me.   He had on casual, leather loafers, jeans, a blue, striped shirt and a wool overcoat.  I stared at his shoes as we walked past each other, and then after glancing at my watch in exasperation, I turned my cart around and literally ran after him.  He graciously agreed to let me take a quick photo.

A week later, I was perusing the produce at Trader Joes when I noticed a man ahead of me wearing a blazer, jeans and distressed, leather loafers.  Upon closer inspection, it was Mr. K again!  This time, I had more time to talk with him a bit.  I complimented his jacket choices and mentioned the fact that many men in the Pacific Northwest wear a performance jacket (e.g. North Face) with jeans and a dress shirt.  Mr. K said he's tried wearing that, but it doesn't feel "quite right" and instead, picks a blazer.  I applauded his choice.  I also liked his leather shoes which were a nicer option than the commonly seen outdoorsy or athletic shoes.  Casual, comfortable, style.  It's the style that's often missing.

   

Mr. K's loafers are distressed without looking scuffed or dirty.  His striped shirt-tails are un-tucked and hang below his sweater; not too long, not too short.  The bold colors of his striped shirt were a good way to add style and interest to the solid layers above.  His blazer is a nice pairing with his shoes (they are both in the brown family-but not overly matchy-matchy).  His v-neck sweater was fitted versus baggy or blousy, and was a great layer in between the shirt and jacket.  Lastly, his corduroy blazer adds a touch of style to finish his comfortable, casual look.  Perhaps a white undershirt would be a bit more suave instead of the aged, green T-shirt, but overall, his look was casual done well.

Thank you Mr. K for your participation and input.  I hope to see more men like you blending comfortable and casual in an attractive way.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Are you this man?

Here is a photo of man I ran into yesterday who allowed me to take his photo for Wasabi Nights.  He caught my eye right away for three reasons:

1.  His shoes were fabulous.  They were a perfect example of a leather loafer done right.  They were well taken care of (not scuffed or worn). They had a modern shaped toe (longer and NOT rounded) and looked masculine and polished yet comfortable all at the same time.

2.  His pleated pants with the cuffed hem were a nice fabric and length but would have been much more attractive and flattering in a flat-front, cuff-less style.  As a successful man in his thirties wearing modern shoes, the cuffed hem and pleated front seemed out of place (like he borrowed them from an older Uncle or perhaps from the back of his closet circa 1995).  This man is VERY fit and athletic but his pleated pants added unnecessary inches to his thighs and hips.  See: How to know if you are wearing the right pants for more information about the do's and don'ts of men's pleated pants.

3.  His soft shell jacket paired with his dress slacks and urban, leather, loafers were as odd as the weather was that day (sunny and hailing).  It reminded me of those flip books where you could change the top half and bottom half of the character and create funny mixtures of opposites.

When I mentioned the interesting jacket choice to Mr. X, he volunteered he wouldn't mind wearing a blazer and knows it would be more appropriate but "no one wears that in this (casual) town." Then, he shrugged his shoulders in defeat.  I was saddened to hear a very attractive, successful man give up on the idea of a blazer because other people in the town don't do it. I would think a man like him, who I know is a respected leader amongst his friends, would ignore the fashion faux pas of others and forge ahead with what he knows looks good.

There are many advantages to living in a casual Pacific Northwest town; a casual dress code can be one of them.  However, please don't mistake frumpy for casual.  I am encountering too many men in their thirties and beyond who would like (even if it's just secretly) to wear a nicer jacket or blazer but are afraid to stand out as too dressed up.  While Trunk Club is desperately searching for that magic hybrid of North Face meets Blazer, it's not an easy find.  Perhaps it's because it shouldn't exist.  It's time the uber business casual folk realize it feels nice to look good.  Wearing a jacket that matches your business look isn't a stand against casual, it's a measure of respect towards your workplace and industry.  Dressing nicely for work says you want to be there, you are proud of what you do.  Looking good for work also says you respect yourself.

Ask around.  Ask your female co-workers, your girlfriends and wives.  You may be surprised to hear how they would LOVE to see you dress nicer for work!  If you need advice on how to wear a blazer click: how to wear a blazer for business casual or casual done well

If one man in each business casual office where the North Face jacket pervades became a leader and started wearing a blazer or nicer jacket to work, other men would follow.  If you are all waiting for the other guy to do it, it will never happen. 

Who will take the first step?  Will you be the leader?

If there is one thing I am certain; your bravery will be rewarded, because you won't be alone for long. 

A personal thank you to Mr. X.  He is a great guy with a lovely family and I truly appreciate his participation in this post.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Men's Shoes I Love

Those who know me personally know; I love shoes. 

Wednesday, Trunk Club Corporate asked me to send a quick wish list to the Product Division for some different clothing items I had in mind for some of my clients.  While researching the masses, I came across a few shoes I loved for a variety of different reasons.  They aren't right for every man, but they are great shoes!

John Varvatos Slip-On

365.00     I LOVE this shoe and while it's price point is higher than some men would like, it's such a modern and versatile shoe for the business casual man.  It would go great with jeans or chinos and would be a comfortable, yet modern shoe a man could wear for years.

John Lobb Vale Buckle Loafer

1560.00      This is way off the charts for most guys price-wise and I am not normally a fan of the buckled men's shoe, but the proportions and placement are perfect in this shoe.  Even though many men would say they don't like the side buckle or pointed toe, once they put it on, I think they would see and feel it's power.  It would look very masculine on the man.  I picture these with a suit, with slacks and a dress shirt, or even with dark, premium denim and an un-tucked dress shirt.  These shoes ooze power and success.

Ermenegildo Zegna Leonardo Lace-Up

950.00     J'adore.  Too expensive for most, but that is what a wish list is for!  This shoe is original, a stand out, without being over done.  If you look at it closely, the leather looks like a polished saddle; with masculine texture and depth.  The perfect marriage of rugged and sophisticated.  These would look awesome with a suit, or slacks or even premium denim and a sharp blazer.  Magnifique!!

	Nike 'Air Pegasus 83' Sneaker (Men) $68.00

This is one of my favorite, vintage sneakers right now.  It's simple, classic and versatile enough to go with everything casual.  And, it's more unique than the over-used Jack Purcell look.  The man in Trader Joes who had on the Hudson jeans was wearing these (see my previous post What is Premium Denim?).

	Mezlan 'Carmichael' Oxford $195.00   To Boot New York 'Amherst' Oxford $295.0

Here are two examples of solid, reasonably affordable, basic dress shoes.  They are the classic go-to for a polished business look.  

John Varvatos Aged Lace-Up

375.00

Here is a great option for men who like the more rugged look.  I am not a huge fan of the "suede-buck" boot which to me always look like Grandpa shoes or wanna-be preppy.  However, these are a nicer version that still looks like a shoe, but function almost like a short boot.  Comfortable and mildly sophisticated, a man could wear these with denim or chinos.  A great transition for men who love to wear hiking boots!

In summary: A common response I hear from Trunk Club men is they want to have their own look, something unique, even if it's just "conservative with a twist."   Shoes say a lot about a person and are one of the best ways for men to distinguish themselves from the masses.  Men don't have as many options to diversify their look since you're pretty much stuck with pants or shorts and a shirt compared to women who have significantly more choices (dresses, skirts, pants, leggings, shorts, etc.).  Listen up men!  Shoes are a great way to mark your personal style.

Please keep in mind that your shoes are the anchor of your outfit.  Don't let bad shoes sink your look.  For example, the man wearing a nice shirt and slacks who then finishes his outfit with inappropriate or worn, scuffed, shoes ruined any chance the nice shirt and slacks had at making him look good.  When you want to feel more confident at work or want to have an edge of style when you go out, put your best foot forward.  Wear some nice shoes.  Although they are one of the last things you put on, they are one of the first things people notice.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Twenty Things Men Should Know

"Tennis Suit" July, 2007 by The Sartorialist

While perusing images from one of my favorite blogs The Sartorialist I came across this image and it inspired today's blog post.  What is lauded as fashion in places like Milan and Paris is chastised as tacky in the everyman's world.  When in Rome, dress like the Romans.  For the rest of us however, more traditional rules apply.  Here are twenty things men should know (unless they live in Milan or Paris where the rules change everyday and wearing a fur sport coat and flip flops can be accepted as a fashion statement).

Ten Things Men Should Know about Business Formal Attire:
1.  The point of your tie should never fall below your belt buckle.
2.  If your dress shirt is blousing out around your waist, it doesn't look like a dress shirt, it looks like a blouse.
3.  You should always wear your seat belt, but make sure the shoulder strap goes under your tie.
4.  French cuffs are always appreciated by women as long as your cuff links don't sparkle more than her own jewelry. 
5.  If you must economize, get a good suit and great shoes.  Don't skimp on the shoes, ever.  A great suit with lame shoes is wasted money on the suit.
6.  Unless you can pull off the movie star, runway, urban street look; please don't wear sneakers with a suit, there's nothing cool or polished about looking goofy.
7.  It's always better to be overdressed than under dressed.  The best dressed man in the room commands attention and leaves the rest of the men wishing they had dressed better.  Be a leader not a follower.
8.  Drape your jacket over an un-used chair or better yet, bring a hanger to work and hang it up when you aren't wearing it.  If you place your jacket on your seat back and sit on it, it will look like you placed your jacket on your seat back and sat on it.
9.  Button down collars on simple dress shirts are not your friend.  If you still wear them, it's time to update!  NOTE: button down collars on super fitted, stylish designer brand shirts can be a good look.
10.  Clothes that fit well always look better.  Better quality clothing is designed to fit better.  Practice quality over quantity.

Ten Things Men Should Know in General:
1.  Women notice nose hair; so should you.
2.  If you have dandruff or dry scalp issues, please stay away from dark, solid colored shirts and jackets until you can get your flakes under control. 
3.  If you want to look taller, try sitting and standing up straight.  Slouching is never attractive and is terrible for your back.  Good posture is always attractive and excellent for your abs.
4.  Put a post it note on your computer screen that reminds you to sit up straight.  Practice daily.
5.  A T-shirt that shows through your dress shirt is as classy as a woman's black bra showing through her white T-shirt.  Just say no to ghetto.
6.  Sierra Trading Post, Outlet Malls, etc. have great sale prices.  However, there is a reason those items are for sale. 
7.  Women shop online but rarely buy.  Men buy online but rarely shop.  People who shop are more particular about what they buy. 
8.  MEN: Be wary of what you buy online unless you know the size, style and brand already.  All too often you fill your closet and home with things that don't quite fit but you keep it anyway.
9.  Add up the amount of money you spend on sale clothing you don't or shouldn't wear because it doesn't fit right, doesn't look right, doesn't feel good or looked bad after you washed it.  That money would have been better spent on a full price, quality item that you wear weekly and love.
10.  Always keep a lint roller handy (in your office or car).  Fuzzy, hairy, snow-speckled clothing is always a faux pas no matter what you are wearing.

Happy Friday and have a wonderful weekend.

-Lisa Bruckner Certified Trunk Club Consultant