Wasabi Nights

Casual Done Well

While running errands, I photographed a man I'll call Mr. K, twice in the past two weeks.  Both times, he caught my eye and stood out from the rest as a man who blends casual comfortably with style. 

The first time I saw him, I was on borrowed time, pushing my cart through the aisle like a woman on a mission.  Suddenly, I was distracted by a man walking towards me.   He had on casual, leather loafers, jeans, a blue, striped shirt and a wool overcoat.  I stared at his shoes as we walked past each other, and then after glancing at my watch in exasperation, I turned my cart around and literally ran after him.  He graciously agreed to let me take a quick photo.

A week later, I was perusing the produce at Trader Joes when I noticed a man ahead of me wearing a blazer, jeans and distressed, leather loafers.  Upon closer inspection, it was Mr. K again!  This time, I had more time to talk with him a bit.  I complimented his jacket choices and mentioned the fact that many men in the Pacific Northwest wear a performance jacket (e.g. North Face) with jeans and a dress shirt.  Mr. K said he's tried wearing that, but it doesn't feel "quite right" and instead, picks a blazer.  I applauded his choice.  I also liked his leather shoes which were a nicer option than the commonly seen outdoorsy or athletic shoes.  Casual, comfortable, style.  It's the style that's often missing.

   

Mr. K's loafers are distressed without looking scuffed or dirty.  His striped shirt-tails are un-tucked and hang below his sweater; not too long, not too short.  The bold colors of his striped shirt were a good way to add style and interest to the solid layers above.  His blazer is a nice pairing with his shoes (they are both in the brown family-but not overly matchy-matchy).  His v-neck sweater was fitted versus baggy or blousy, and was a great layer in between the shirt and jacket.  Lastly, his corduroy blazer adds a touch of style to finish his comfortable, casual look.  Perhaps a white undershirt would be a bit more suave instead of the aged, green T-shirt, but overall, his look was casual done well.

Thank you Mr. K for your participation and input.  I hope to see more men like you blending comfortable and casual in an attractive way.

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Men's Cargo Pants

While shopping online yesterday, I noticed a recurrent trend on each site I visited: men's cargo pants on sale or clearance.  I felt a rush of excitement at the thought of never seeing a grown man wear these pocket friendly pants again!  However, as a realist, I understand cargo pants have a purpose, place and time.  Let's discuss these.

The purpose of cargo pants is to hold things.  While chatting with Trunk Club founder Joanna Van Vleck yesterday, I mentioned my dislike of cargo pants, and she summed it up perfectly: "how many toys do you need to carry with you in one day?" 

If you work in an office or in the business sector, everything you need should be on your desk, in your briefcase or thanks to current technology; compiled onto one device like an iPhone.  Therefore, cargo pants do not belong on the business man, no matter how casual his office is. 

That brings us to place.  The place for cargo pants is simple: anywhere you need to be (usually outdoors) where you require many, many, pockets to hold things you can't carry in another manner.  For example: the dad taking his kids to the park (pockets for diapers, snacks, sippy cups, etc.).  Cargo pants are ideal for the great outdoors, expeditions, and careers that require you to work in the rough.  Going camping?  Put on those cargo pants!  Going to the office?  Put the cargo pants down!                                                    

Lastly, let's talk about time.  The best time to wear cargo pants is when you don't need to worry about your appearance.  This is a key point to remember.  Cargo pants are not attractive, nor flattering unless you are a muscular man in uniform who is not wearing a shirt.  I understand you think cargo pants look cool in that "I want to be outdoorsy, comfortable and slightly dangerous" way.  However, after you wash them and the pocket flaps stand up above your bun cheeks in high salute and the thigh pockets are so wrinkled they look like mummified remains, they just don't look that good on.  To me, cargo pants are a wannabe indulgence of the urban man.  It's like the guy who drives a hummer down Fifth Avenue.  Those potholes are so dangerous, man.  

Now, let's jump back to purpose, if you truly must carry your iPod, flask, sewing kit and hair product everywhere you go, may I please suggest a tasteful murse?  For you manly men who need to travel hands-free, may I suggest the truly cool ScotteVest.  Some of these jackets look like they are straight out of the Swat Team supply room and have 352 pockets! 

My goal is to help men look their best.  Therefore, I recommend it's time you pack those cargo's away for the weekend adventures and buy some flat-front chinos or dark denim jeans instead.

Since men like rules, here's one to follow: cargo pants should only be worn with athletic shoes (including hiking or combat boots) or vintage sneakers.  If you are wearing them right now with your dress shoes or casual, leather lace ups, it's not the best look for you. 

If you don't do your own laundry, consider this: the person who does your laundry will shout for joy when they no longer have to check all six pockets of your pants every time they launder them.  Pack those pocketedy pants up for them, if you won't do it for yourself.

Here's a fun link to a blog from a man who just loves wearing his cargo pants.  Splendicity blog post about cargo pants

-Lisa Bruckner Trunk Club Consultant

Twenty Things Men Should Know

"Tennis Suit" July, 2007 by The Sartorialist

While perusing images from one of my favorite blogs The Sartorialist I came across this image and it inspired today's blog post.  What is lauded as fashion in places like Milan and Paris is chastised as tacky in the everyman's world.  When in Rome, dress like the Romans.  For the rest of us however, more traditional rules apply.  Here are twenty things men should know (unless they live in Milan or Paris where the rules change everyday and wearing a fur sport coat and flip flops can be accepted as a fashion statement).

Ten Things Men Should Know about Business Formal Attire:
1.  The point of your tie should never fall below your belt buckle.
2.  If your dress shirt is blousing out around your waist, it doesn't look like a dress shirt, it looks like a blouse.
3.  You should always wear your seat belt, but make sure the shoulder strap goes under your tie.
4.  French cuffs are always appreciated by women as long as your cuff links don't sparkle more than her own jewelry. 
5.  If you must economize, get a good suit and great shoes.  Don't skimp on the shoes, ever.  A great suit with lame shoes is wasted money on the suit.
6.  Unless you can pull off the movie star, runway, urban street look; please don't wear sneakers with a suit, there's nothing cool or polished about looking goofy.
7.  It's always better to be overdressed than under dressed.  The best dressed man in the room commands attention and leaves the rest of the men wishing they had dressed better.  Be a leader not a follower.
8.  Drape your jacket over an un-used chair or better yet, bring a hanger to work and hang it up when you aren't wearing it.  If you place your jacket on your seat back and sit on it, it will look like you placed your jacket on your seat back and sat on it.
9.  Button down collars on simple dress shirts are not your friend.  If you still wear them, it's time to update!  NOTE: button down collars on super fitted, stylish designer brand shirts can be a good look.
10.  Clothes that fit well always look better.  Better quality clothing is designed to fit better.  Practice quality over quantity.

Ten Things Men Should Know in General:
1.  Women notice nose hair; so should you.
2.  If you have dandruff or dry scalp issues, please stay away from dark, solid colored shirts and jackets until you can get your flakes under control. 
3.  If you want to look taller, try sitting and standing up straight.  Slouching is never attractive and is terrible for your back.  Good posture is always attractive and excellent for your abs.
4.  Put a post it note on your computer screen that reminds you to sit up straight.  Practice daily.
5.  A T-shirt that shows through your dress shirt is as classy as a woman's black bra showing through her white T-shirt.  Just say no to ghetto.
6.  Sierra Trading Post, Outlet Malls, etc. have great sale prices.  However, there is a reason those items are for sale. 
7.  Women shop online but rarely buy.  Men buy online but rarely shop.  People who shop are more particular about what they buy. 
8.  MEN: Be wary of what you buy online unless you know the size, style and brand already.  All too often you fill your closet and home with things that don't quite fit but you keep it anyway.
9.  Add up the amount of money you spend on sale clothing you don't or shouldn't wear because it doesn't fit right, doesn't look right, doesn't feel good or looked bad after you washed it.  That money would have been better spent on a full price, quality item that you wear weekly and love.
10.  Always keep a lint roller handy (in your office or car).  Fuzzy, hairy, snow-speckled clothing is always a faux pas no matter what you are wearing.

Happy Friday and have a wonderful weekend.

-Lisa Bruckner Certified Trunk Club Consultant

That's a sweet shirt, dude.

While at a hip Portland restaurant eating breakfast with friends the other weekend, a bus boy in his twenties came up to one of the men at our table and said "That's a sweet shirt, dude."  This is a real compliment if you are still in your teens or twenties.  However, if you are in the man's world now, receiving a compliment like this is your wake up call that you are not dressing appropriately for your age.  

A majority of men who work in industries that don't require a set dress code (i.e. wear whatever) fall into the "cool dude abyss."  Their style hasn't changed regardless of their change in life status: career, title, position. They continue to buy and dress as if they are still in college or their early twenties.   What may be hip and stylish for college boys (worn/distressed jeans and a graphic t-shirt), is not hip and stylish on a "grown" man in the workplace or when going out.  Nor will dressing this way make you appear younger in a positive way.  The never grow up ideal didn't do anything good for Michael Jackson's image.

Your assignment: take a look in the mirror and if you are in your thirties or beyond and wearing a graphic T-shirt to work or to go out on the town (see the example above from Threadless.com), you are probably mired in the abyss.  The only exception is if you are a male fashionisto who has mastered the edgy, urban, street look (usually by spending thousands of dollars on designer clothes just to look like you just rolled out of bed).


  Same man, different look. Leave the rebel at home and send the man to work or out on the town.

How seriously do you take a college boy wearing a beer t-shirt?  Just because you are older, wiser and have a nice title or position, doesn't necessarily mean people will take you any more seriously if you are dressed in "cool dude" attire.  While you may get a laugh or two from the ladies when wearing your "LoveRobot" T-shirt, please remember they are essentially laughing at you.  The message your never grow up attire sends to any woman of substance is "Never mind."
 
Dressing the part for you age and position will give you significantly more self confidence (even if you don't think you need any more).  And the best part is the return on your effort; your peers, colleagues and superiors take more notice and express more confidence in you.  When the CEO stops you to say "that's a sweet shirt" and you look down and see a quality, tailored fit dress shirt, polo, etc.; you have shed the dude and become a man.

-Lisa Bruckner Certified Trunk Club Consultant

 

Blaze a trail

This time of year (schizoid weather), most men are ready to shed their heavy parkas or pea coats and put something else on.  Next time you reach for a jacket, may I suggest a blazer. 

When you mention the word "blazer" in the context of wardrobe, most men think of a formal suit jacket.  This limits the true power of the blazer, (more accurately called a sport coat), because it's so much more than the better half to a suit.  Blazers come in many different styles, textures and fabrics.  Some are formal, some are classically casual, others are hip and modern.  Some blazers don't even look like your traditional sport coat due to their shorter cut and interesting fabric, such as cotton, fleece, suede, corduroy, velvet, linen or flannel. 

The best thing about a blazer is how it can add the finishing touch to your entire outfit.  How many times have you put on a nice business casual outfit, or a modern "going out" outfit only to hide it under your North Face jacket or your heavy overcoat?  

 

I found a perfect example of an "REI Guy" jacket dysfunctionally paired with business clothing on a blog by Elizabeth.  A blazer could have taken this man's outfit from senior in high school to successful entrepreneur in the five seconds it would have taken him to put it on.  For those of you who don't recognize him, it's Mark Zuckerberg, the CEO of Facebook.  Sure he's worth a billion dollars (at least on paper), but that doesn't mean he looks any less goofy in his dress shirt, tie and North Face jacket. 

Investing in a few different blazers can actually give your wardrobe a face lift.  A blazer can help make comfortable pieces like dark jeans and an un-tucked dress shirt more appropriate for the business casual workplace. Business casual doesn't mean you can't still be comfortable. 

A nice blazer will polish your look, modernize your appearance and draw positive attention from others.  Many times, your jacket is the part of your clothing people see the most.  You would be surprised how often women notice the jacket men wear (for better or worse). 

 

Throwing a nice blazer on is also a great way to dress up basics like a t-shirt and jeans.  NOTE: the graphic T-shirts in the photos above make these outfits appropriate for casual events.  I do not recommend wearing graphic t-shirts in the professional business workplace.  These are just examples to demonstrate that wearing a blazer isn't always synonymous with "dressed up" or "formal."

 Daniel Craig is casually polished in jeans, white shirt and a pinstripe blazer.  Well done, Bond.

The man who finishes his business outfit with a nice jacket (compared to the man who disqualifies his outfit with a snow camping parka) looks more successful, affluent (no matter how much your North Face cost), and respected.  I love Patagonia, Mountain Hardware, North Face, REI, etc.  However, I love it best when it's worn appropriately.  Leave it on the trail boys, and when dressing like a man, wear your blazer.

-Lisa Bruckner Certified Trunk Club Consultant

Tailor this please

 
This man's outfit could be a nice example of something to wear in the modern business casual workplace, or out on the town.  However, there are two exceptions: the top and the bottom.  When I look at this man, my eyes catch (and my nose crinkles) at his neck line and his ankles. 

First things first, men, please wear an undershirt!  Unless you are a hunky movie star type or live in a tropical climate, showing off too much of your neck or chest is just plain cheesy.  If this man was wearing a nice, white undershirt and buttoned up his shirt one extra button, he would look more professional, polished and also more attractive!  Showing off too much of your chest can actually be de-masculating. 

The second problem with this man's potentially great outfit are the hem of his pants.  Please note that the man's rolled pant cuffs are not acceptable.  If your jeans (yes jeans!), pants, chinos, khakis, slacks, trousers, or whatever you like to call them are too long, please get them hemmed by a professional tailor.  Otherwise, you ruin a potentially great outfit by drawing all the visual attention to your unsightly cuffs.  It's a few dollars well spent. 

If you don't know how to find a good tailor, ask around.  Especially ask any man whose clothing you admire.  If you are single, asking a woman for help in finding a tailor is a great conversation starter.  

Get those pants hemmed sir; don't quit in the final hour. 

-Lisa Bruckner Certified Trunk Club Consultant

P.S. Just because you see women rolling their pant cuffs doesn't mean you can.  Fashion and style rules do not always apply for both genders equally.  Sorry guys.

Looking good casually on the weekends and evenings.

 

It's Friday and if you're lucky, you might have plans to go out to dinner, see friends, go on a date, etc.  So, after you hang up your suit or your chino tuxedo, you might wonder what you should wear.  Wearing your "work clothes" during the weekend is not conducive to relaxation.  As a successful and busy man, you deserve some R and R from your work life when you go out on the weekend.  Dark denim jeans, paired with a blazer always looks confident and polished in a casually put together way.  David Duchovny shows us two perfect examples above.  Top your denim with a casual dress shirt, tailored fit polo shirt or a solid (non graphic) t-shirt.  If you don't need a belt to keep your jeans up, leave it off and let your shirt stay un-tucked for a nice weekend look and feel. 

 

Another option to pair with dark denim is a sweater.  You can layer it with an un-tucked dress shirt, with the cuffs folded back.  Or you can wear the sweater solo with a nice, white undershirt. Make sure your sweaters are well made and fit well (see above for examples).  A loose, sloppy sweater with sagging shoulders and a baggy waist can demote your look from fabulous to frumpy.

 

The key to pulling off this casually-polished look is to wear a nice pair of casual leather shoes.  Loafers, boots or modern leather lace ups are good options.  If you are on the edgier side, you can try some vintage or retro sneakers-like Converse or Stan Smiths (but I recommend leather shoes for most since you really have to own your sense of style to pull off the J.Crew sneaker and jeans look).  What you want to avoid is wearing any shoe that is designed for an athletic purpose.  Running shoes, cross trainers, tennis shoes, hiking boots, etc. do not make you look good unless you are doing an activity that requires them (and wearing the appropriate athletic clothing with it).  

Looking good when you go out on the weekend is just as easy as looking good at work, as long as you have the right pieces and can put them together in the right way.

-Lisa Bruckner, Certified Trunk Club Consultant